Since 1906, the "Mains d'Or" craftsmen (golden hands) have pushed the boundaries of craft and science to produce the world’s most exquisite and innovative jewels, such as the Zip necklace with diamond teeth, and the Mystery Setting which allows stones to float beside each other with no visible metal.
In 1896, Estelle Arpels, born Esther, the daughter of a dealer in precious stones, married Alfred Van Cleef, who came from a long line of Dutch craftsmen who specialized in cutting precious stones. In 1906, Alfred, together with his brother-in-law Charles Arpels, registered the name “Van Cleef & Arpels” and set up shop on the Place Vendôme. They were soon joined by Julien and Louis Arpels . The family knowledge and business acumen of these young entrepreneurs was perfectly in tune with the new political and economic elite and the businesses they ran. The popularity of the World Exhibitions held in Paris, and the growth of cultural tourism that attracted many to the City of Light, all contributed to the continuing prosperity of the Right Bank neighbourhood of the Place Vendôme. Over time the Place Vendôme has come to symbolize a special kind of elegance, simplicity and classicism that is supremely French – the “French touch”.
Today, the High Jewellery Maison of Van Cleef & Arpels is still located at 22, Place Vendôme. The former private salons have been replaced by a boutique which has recently been refurbished to celebrate the Maison’s centennial year with a stunning design by Patrick Jouin. The jewellery workshop remains above the boutique and boasts a unique group of highly experienced designers and craftsmen and women (the Mains d’Or). From the first days of the company, these experts have pushed the limits of their craft and science to produce impossibly innovative pieces such as the Zip necklace (which zips up over diamond teeth) and the Mystery Setting (where stones are cut and set in an undulating pave with no visible metal holding them in place). Timepieces have always been a pillar of the Maison’s creativity, from watches hidden within jewelled flowers or in the secret drawers of diamond encrusted Minaudières (evening bags), to the super flat and elegant men’s watches designed by Julien’s son Pierre Arpels in 1949.
Pierres de Caractère (Extraordinary Stones) together with Nature and Couture remain central tenets of inspiration for the Maison. For Van Cleef & Arpels, the perfection and soul of a stone are the principal criteria. Similarly, because Nature is synonymous with vitality, spontaneity, movement and creativity, it has ever been one of the Maison’s favourite themes. The magical gardens of Van Cleef & Arpels are home to butterflies, fairies and beautiful mythical creatures; plump peonies, roses in full bloom and dragonflies with shimmering wings. Faithful to its principles, the Maison dares the unexpected in a quest for lightness, adapting its materials to breathe life into their creations.
